Cuenca...............makes me smile.

Before I became interested in Ecuador, I had never heard of Cuenca.  Imagine a half million people living in a gorgeous European style city in South America.  It seems like it would be something everyone should know about.   However, it is a big world out there and the world is full of beautiful places so it is hard to know all of them.

Hotel lobby on Calle Larga.  I think I'd like to stay there someday.

Cuenca is the third largest city in Ecuador situated at 2500 meters above sea level. That's around 8000 feet to Americans and 1.55342798 miles if you want to compare to the mile high city of Denver. A look in any history book and you will see that it was established on April 12, 1557, by the Spanish explorer Gil Ramirez Davalos. Andrés Hurtado de Mendoza, who was Viceroy of Peru at the time, commissioned the founding and ordered it named after his home town of Cuenca, Spain.

Ninety-seven steps.  Yes, I counted them.

I do not believe that explanation goes far enough back as it is hard to establish a city that already existed.  According to archeological discoveries, the origins of the first inhabitants were nomadic tribes that go back to 8060 BC in the Cave of Chopsi which is located in the area and where writings were found on the walls.  They hunted with arrows and spears which have been found throughout much of the Andean valley.  Their presence was more stabilized by 5585 B.C. after which they started taking advantage of the mild climate and cultivating potatoes (spelled by an e....smiling), melloco (a root vegetable with edible leaves), chocho (a type of bean but do not dare look this word up in the urban dictionary), squash (you know you love it!) and quinoa (which is an amino acid-rich protein and can be a very important addition to a vegetarian diet).  They started domesticating cuy (guinea pigs), and camelids, such as alpacas and llamas.    It is interesting to know that agriculture started about the same time in Ancient Egypt.  Farming did not reach central and northern Europe for another half century primarily due to climate change.  They had their own global warming in those days.

Statue at an archeological site within Cuenca.  

Around 2000 B.C., the early inhabitants became much more highly organized and started delegating responsibilities both administratively and religiously.   They managed water and disease.  There was a succession of indigenous called Chaullambamba, Huancarcucho, Jubones, Pirincay, Monjas, Putushio, and Huayco.   Cuenca actually began as a settlement of commerce called Guapondeleg around 500 AD by the Canaris who were eventually defeated and absorbed into the Incan tribes in the 15th century, less than a half century before the arrival of the Spanish.  The Canaris had made great strides in astronomy and agriculture and the Incans retained these achievements but replaced their architecture with their own.   Eventually being renamed Tomebamba, the city may have been a candidate for the mythical city of gold the Spanish called El Dorado but it lay in ruins and was sparsely populated by the time they arrived there in the mid 16th century.

  Be still my heart!!  Tex-mex alive and well in Cuenca!!

Knowing that there were many indigenous groups who obviously battled for power throughout the centuries is important in the greater context of world dominance.   We know the Spanish came to the Americas and pushed the indigenous people out of their homes and decimated the population.   The battles have always been there.   Weapons just got much bigger and transportation got better.

 At a western style mall with another expat.   Younger, thinner, cuter...retired.  Did I mention smarter?

When you are dreaming of a trip to Italy with an emphasis on Florence but the funds just won't permit, may I suggest Cuenca instead?   I've been to both and they are both beautiful.   Both cities have a lot of history and beautiful cathedrals as well as the fabled cobble stone streets favored many centuries ago.  Indeed, a few weeks ago I was walking down a street in "old town" and I couldn't help but remember the narrow streets, the wrought iron balconies with brightly colored flower boxes, and street vendors in another place.

No, not in Florence.   Cuenca.  Yes, Cuenca.

There are four rivers in Cuenca.   One interesting point is that Cuenca means a basin made by confluence  of rivers which further means that Cuenca, Spain, must have had a similar geographical location.   It is surrounded by mountains and the rivers are called Tomebamba, Yanuncay, Tarqui and Machangara, which are part of the Amazon River watershed.   The average daily temperature is 58 degrees Fahrenheit and the nights are cool enough for a jacket or sweater.   My advice is don't bring one.   It will give you an excuse to buy one of the gorgeous Alpaca ponchos they have at the markets.   The last time I was there, I paid $18 for one in lavendar.  

White water raging through the middle of Cuenca in the guise of the Tomebamba.

Cuenca is located 4 hours north of Vilcabamba if you go by the van system from Hostel Izhcayluma which is only $15 on a one way basis and is limited to 5 passengers.   If taking a bus, it is generally around 7 to 8 hours at a final cost of around $9.   If you are walking, you will never get there.   The buses and deathmobiles will get you before you ever make it.

Misspellings can be funny....